How do I know my membrane is dead and not just the pre-filters?
Change the pre-filters first, then retest TDS. If rejection is still low, it's the membrane. Pre-filters are cheap; membranes aren't — always rule out the cheap fix first.
15 minutes, no plumber, one rookie mistake to avoid.
Not by the calendar — by the numbers. Replace the membrane when your rejection rate drops and stays low after you've already changed the pre-filters. Typically that's every 2–3 years on municipal water. If your pre-filters were neglected and chlorine reached the membrane, it can die much younger — chlorine kills TFC membranes.
Touching the membrane surface with bare hands. The oils from your skin coat the 0.0001-micron pores and permanently reduce performance. Handle by the plastic ends, or wear clean gloves. This one mistake is responsible for a remarkable number of "my new membrane doesn't work" complaints.
Change the pre-filters first, then retest TDS. If rejection is still low, it's the membrane. Pre-filters are cheap; membranes aren't — always rule out the cheap fix first.
A quick rinse is enough for routine swaps. If the system sat unused for weeks, sanitize with a dilute unscented bleach rinse and flush thoroughly — stagnant housings grow biofilm.
The brine seal (the rubber ring near one end) faces the feed-water inlet. Wrong orientation = poor rejection. When in doubt, match how the old one sat.
Discard the first tankful, or run a tankless system ~30 minutes. You're flushing manufacturing preservative, not dirt.
Only if your feed pressure and flow restrictor support it. A bigger membrane starved of pressure performs worse than a correctly sized one. See our booster pump guide.